My dear friends around the world,
I greet you in this, the first hour of the new year.
Know that I would have sent you the message even at that very moment,
but midnight has found us without any service in any single network.
So, instead, I raise my glass to you and wish you love and peace
and a full share of life's adventures in this new year.
May your rain come in good time
and the sun warm you with its shining.
May your roads be smooth and your journeys safe.
May you always find food on your table
and never fear for the security of your children.
May you love and be loved in return.
May your beer be cold and your coffee hot.
May you find yourself in the company of those who love life –
and may your days be full of laughter.
31 December 2009
2010 Greetings.
30 December 2009
Firsts in 2009.
- Celebrated the New Year in Uganda.
- Studied the general behaviours of maribou storks.
- Realised that pineapples don't grow on trees.
- Suffered from malaria.
- Danced Kiganda and Kisoga.
- Translated Luganda into English for someone else.
- Visited Kitgum and Gulu.
- Paid school fees for children in primary school.
- Received mail from India.
- Taught a seminar on restorative discipline.
- Received a chicken as a gift.
- Took holiday in Rwanda.
- Saw a crested crane.
- Bought earrings for myself.
- Got my ears pierced.
- Visited Soroti.
- Visited Kotido.
- Been delightedly surprised to hear my school announced as the winner of the Deanery Education Week.
- Was the guest of honour at a school function.
- Read Luganda in a public setting.
- Finished my first year of service with MCC.
- Became a vegetarian.
- Attended my first cousin's wedding.
- Bought a mac.
- Took a graduate level course.
- Visited Philadelphia.
- Rode a train.
- Rode the subway.
- Learnt to use Quickbooks.
- Received mail from Uganda while in America.
- Had my first second kiss.
- Knocked another vehicle.
- Changed my relationship status on facebook.
- Visited the midwest.
- Visited Goshen College.
- Played trivia with friends at an Indiana bar.
- Ate Mexican food with my fingers with a handsome date.
- Saw “Annie” performed onstage.
- Took a connecting flight through Heathrow airport.
- Sent postcards to random people through Postcrossing.
- Started learning Acoli.
- Experienced the intensity of the northern Ugandan sun.
- Lived in a hut.
- Learnt the rules for matatu.
- Drank 10 litres of water in a day.
- Seen normal Ugandan men wearing shorts.
- Ground odi [ground nuts & sim sim].
- Carried water on my head.
- Learnt to make chapatis.
- Was given an Acoli name.
- Visited Kabale.
- Took photos at the Equator.
- Got my ears pierced again.
- Seen goats given to the winner of a football match.
- Started learning Italiano.
- Crossed the Nile on a ferry.
- Visited West Nile.
- Eaten regularly with religious nuns.
- Ate bagels on Boxing Day.
- Bought DVDs in Uganda.
- Drank eggnog.
- Iced a cake Ugandan style.
27 December 2009
Father Jjajja.
Throughout the parish, Father Jerome is lovingly referred to as Father Jjajja; in English, Father Grandfather. As per his ordination vows, Father Jjajja has never borne children of his own. Yet, with their full blessing, he relates in a grandfatherly way to every adult and child in the community.
Father Jjajja is the keeper of the parish visitor's book, and he enthusiastically welcomes any and all guests. I love visiting Father Jjajja at the parish. Last year, he was often the only priest I'd find around if I walked up to the parish during the day: the younger two tend to move around a bit more and celebrate various functions.
He speaks with a bit of an elderly mumble, but his English is impeccably British, and he still periodically teaches me new words in Luganda. More than a year ago, as I was first attempting to learn this (then) new language, it was Father Jjajja who taught me to say that I was learning “empola empola” – slowly by slowly – using his own unhurried walk to demonstrate the meaning of this new phrase. Father Jjajja does many things slowly by slowly, as he is certainly entitled to as his advanced age.
If you ask him why he wanted to become a priest, as a dear friend of mine did last week, he will grin softly and tell you of the British Fathers who used to visit his village when he was a small boy. He remembers liking the grand clothes they put on and the sweets they would hand out: he noticed that the Fathers were always well-fed and well-groomed. This is not to suggest that Father Jjajja (or others who would make the same admission) does not have a deep and meaningful calling to the priestly vocation. From his gentle manner and humble demeanour to his faithful practice of the daily order of prayers, Father Jjajja is the type of priest – and grandfather – that the world could surely use a great deal more of.
Gifting Father Jjajja.
When I was leaving Bukoto a few months ago, Father Jjajja had a single request of me. He did not ask for money or sponsorship; he has no need for American pen friends (he already has acquaintances scattered around the globe). Instead, he showed me a set of prayer books that an American priest had gifted him with decades and decades before. Four volumes, each coloured to match its period in the church calendar, which laid out the daily order of prayers and readings for the entire year. Used before they even reached him, these books have been Father Jjajja's daily prayer companions ever since. The spines were removing themselves, the ribbons fraying: the prayer books of a man who faithfully prays for his congregation and colleagues.
His one request: try to find the publisher in the United States and see if I could find him a new(er) copy. He didn't mind having a used copy, but he would really like to use books which were in slightly better condition. Most likely I wouldn't be able to find anything, and that would be perfectly fine, but could I please try?
I promised I would.
Last week, after getting rained on while we saw the new developments at St Jude Junior School, a friend and I walked up to the parish to visit Father Jjajja in particular. We had been invited to dine with the Fathers later that evening (true to his youthful observation, many priests continue to eat quite well), but I wanted to spend a little extra time with Father Jjajja before that. In part, I knew he would be excited to make a new friend; even more than that, however, I was excited to surprise him with the gift I had tucked into first my suitcase, and now my backpack: four brand new leather bound volumes of the Liturgy of the Hours. Wrapped in white paper and accounting for a few of the kilogrammes of weight I was allotted on the British Air flight, these books had been a delightful burden since arriving in my mailbox last month. So, we walked up to the parish, found Father, and started conversing with him.
When I could barely contain myself and was about to bring the books out of my bag anyway, Father Jjajja finally brought up his earlier request. Had I had any luck finding out about those books which he showed me before I left? Later, he told me that he didn't really expect that I would have gotten them: it was a bit of a long shot and really the kind of question you ask a friend who is leaving but don't really know if they'll give a thought to it after they've left (kind of along the same lines as all of my fellow teachers who never expected to see me in Bukoto this Christmas and thought I had promised to return simply to make them “feel comfortable”...).
How delighted was he when I unzipped my pack and started pulling out the four paper-covered texts. He exclaimed over each one as Madame Noe, my friend, and I helped unwrap them ever so carefully. Aw, delightful!
We spent the next hour or so watching to Father flip through the books and explain to us the order of their contents: daily readings, morning prayers, saints' day prayers, psalms, evening prayers, coloured ribbons and gilded pages. He brought out his older copies and showed us where he had added “Ug” to the list of countries whose bishops had approve this text. This newer edition already included Uganda. He showed us the prayers at the end of the psalms, this being one of his reasons for preferring this American version to the Irish ones typically used by his brother priests. He read to us the prayer for the day, then explained the inserts for additional saints and common prayers. On and on, oh, he was so happy with this gift!
Later that night over supper, Father Jjajja compared his joy over these new prayer books to that of a small child gifted with a new dress or new shoes. Just as children can spend hours – or even days – looking at their new things, just as they delight in putting them on and noticing how smart they look, just as they are extra careful not to spoil their new things: so was he with his new books. Indeed, a more than adequate comparison!
And how wonderful to share in an old man's joy and delight this Christmas.
24 December 2009
On my mind...
21 December 2009
19 December 2009
Lake of the Birds.
Equator.
An Advent Reflection.
Context, context, context.
13 December 2009
Scenes from Atiak: Home Life.
Scenes from Atiak: Food.
Scenes from Atiak: People.
Scenes from Atiak: Sights.
Scenes from Atiak: St Monica's Building Site.
12 December 2009
Scenes from Atiak: Auction Day.
Scenes from Atiak: New Dress.
11 December 2009
Connecting.
"Surrounded by life - laughter, conversations, friends - I wonder why I can't immerse myself in such. I can, that must is true, but my soul longs for so much more. It is not your name, major, and state of residence that interest me. Rather, I want to look inside, connect with you on a deeper level. Discover your dreams, your desires, your passions. What makes you get up in the morning? What do you really truly want to do with your life? What are you afraid of? What brings you joy? What are life's deep questions that your soul so desperately longs to answer? What is your story? Those are the questions I want to ask of humankind. To make deep connections; to encounter other souls."
Truly, I've started to make some of those connections: with my host family in Atiak, with the Sisters who have opened their lives to me here in Gulu, with my namesake Daisy. These will deepen, and others must also come, as I immerse myself more fully into this culture and place...
me with my new sister evaline.
Sweeping Compound
Last year, as I watched my younger cousin sweep our compound every day, I learnt to tell the difference between, shall we say, “clean” dirt and “dirty” dirt. Where Americans have their front yards, Ugandans have compounds: the cleared space in front, beside, and around one's house where much of life takes place. The compound is kitchen, laundry room, meeting place, playground. It is here that groundnuts are shelled, potatoes peeled, dishes washed, babies fed, decisions made.
my hut.
Throughout the day, the compound is littered with the detritus of daily life: discarded beans, loose grass and leaves, groundnut shells, chicken droppings, and of course, all of the bits of plastic, wood, and rubber dragged in by wind and children at play.
And so, every evening, we take up a broom – made of cut grasses or even sticks – and we tidy up the place. The process must be repeated in the morning, to brush away the remnants of bottle caps, alcohol packets, goat droppings, and wind-blown leaves [I live now in a busy trading centre, if you couldn't tell by the types of litter I'm describing] – or even just to smooth the dirt which has settled during the night.
Because, you see, the compound is not just piles of lose dirt. Years of passing feet and scorching sun keep these portions of earth hard and firm. So a compound littered with life's rubbish, or even just lightly dusted with soil, like a poorly kept house, tends to signify that the inhabitants (particularly the female ones) are not bothered to keep their space well.
These days, I keep a small grass broom by my door for tidying inside my own hut and front step. And I daily take up the outside broom to sweep our compound. I suppose this should be added to my list of marriageable traits (not that most of my Ugandan suitors seem to worry about much more than my beauty!).
shoes.
10 December 2009
A Mad Manifesto
This evening, sitting at Mama Ruth's salon, I have watched one of the local mad men give a speech. He stood at the edge of the road, appearing to address quite a large (though invisible) crowd as he mumbled his words. He shook his fist at the sky, then covered his mouth and moved away. I can only imagine what manifesto he has declared for us all.
There seem to be quite a few mad people here in Atiak: men, women, and children. Leaving aside the drunkards, whose poor behaviour and nonsensical comments might be temporary, I must have encountered almost ten already, some of whom I have learnt to recognise.
There is the man who informed me that I am from Pakistan, have an Acholi husband and a baby called Giovany. This man with his unheard manifesto. The woman who demanded – in Luganda, nonetheless – that I buy her roasted maize. There is a boy who always smiles, showing all his teeth, and another who likes to do cartwheels. The second one likes to greet me, and today I met him eating a raw onion. There are others, too, whose unkempt appearance and strange behaviour attest to their disturbed mental status.
Auntie tells me that this is yet another result of the war and camp. Alcoholism and malnutrition and insanity: societal trauma attesting to the long-lasting affects of war and violence.
08 December 2009
Yaa. (This Traditional Oil.)
When you want to make oil, you first roast the seeds on the fire, and they become black. Then you pound them, producing a thick, black, gooey substance. (If you also grind the seeds after pounding, it will produce more oil.)
This gooey substance, you take for cooking. First, you heat water, then add a good portion of the yaa. Heat to boiling, stirring constantly. The consistency should be neither very thick nor very thin. Cook for some time at a rolling boil, stirring occasionally. The oil is now separating from the thicker residue (which somehow resembles coffee grounds).
Pour off the oil, and discard the residue. Allow the oil to cool, then filter it.
Yaa can be used for cooking, but it is mostly taken as a condiment for food. For example, it can be poured over bread (made from sorghum and millet) and peas. It is sold in the market, and people seem to really enjoy it.
I watched Auntie prepare the oil from preserved seeds today, from grinding through the cooking process. It took a good part of the day, but we enjoyed the yaa oil with our supper. Personally, I prefer my food a little less oily, but it does have a very distinct flavour.