31 December 2009

2010 Greetings.

My dear friends around the world,
I greet you in this, the first hour of the new year.
Know that I would have sent you the message even at that very moment,
but midnight has found us without any service in any single network.
So, instead, I raise my glass to you and wish you love and peace
and a full share of life's adventures in this new year.
May your rain come in good time
and the sun warm you with its shining.
May your roads be smooth and your journeys safe.
May you always find food on your table
and never fear for the security of your children.
May you love and be loved in return.
May your beer be cold and your coffee hot.
May you find yourself in the company of those who love life –
and may your days be full of laughter.

30 December 2009

Firsts in 2009.

  1. Celebrated the New Year in Uganda.
  2. Studied the general behaviours of maribou storks.
  3. Realised that pineapples don't grow on trees.
  4. Suffered from malaria.
  5. Danced Kiganda and Kisoga.
  6. Translated Luganda into English for someone else.
  7. Visited Kitgum and Gulu.
  8. Paid school fees for children in primary school.
  9. Received mail from India.
  10. Taught a seminar on restorative discipline.
  11. Received a chicken as a gift.
  12. Took holiday in Rwanda.
  13. Saw a crested crane.
  14. Bought earrings for myself.
  15. Got my ears pierced.
  16. Visited Soroti.
  17. Visited Kotido.
  18. Been delightedly surprised to hear my school announced as the winner of the Deanery Education Week.
  19. Was the guest of honour at a school function.
  20. Read Luganda in a public setting.
  21. Finished my first year of service with MCC.
  22. Became a vegetarian.
  23. Attended my first cousin's wedding.
  24. Bought a mac.
  25. Took a graduate level course.
  26. Visited Philadelphia.
  27. Rode a train.
  28. Rode the subway.
  29. Learnt to use Quickbooks.
  30. Received mail from Uganda while in America.
  31. Had my first second kiss.
  32. Knocked another vehicle.
  33. Changed my relationship status on facebook.
  34. Visited the midwest.
  35. Visited Goshen College.
  36. Played trivia with friends at an Indiana bar.
  37. Ate Mexican food with my fingers with a handsome date.
  38. Saw “Annie” performed onstage.
  39. Took a connecting flight through Heathrow airport.
  40. Sent postcards to random people through Postcrossing.
  41. Started learning Acoli.
  42. Experienced the intensity of the northern Ugandan sun.
  43. Lived in a hut.
  44. Learnt the rules for matatu.
  45. Drank 10 litres of water in a day.
  46. Seen normal Ugandan men wearing shorts.
  47. Ground odi [ground nuts & sim sim].
  48. Carried water on my head.
  49. Learnt to make chapatis.
  50. Was given an Acoli name.
  51. Visited Kabale.
  52. Took photos at the Equator.
  53. Got my ears pierced again.
  54. Seen goats given to the winner of a football match.
  55. Started learning Italiano.
  56. Crossed the Nile on a ferry.
  57. Visited West Nile.
  58. Eaten regularly with religious nuns.
  59. Ate bagels on Boxing Day.
  60. Bought DVDs in Uganda.
  61. Drank eggnog.
  62. Iced a cake Ugandan style.


27 December 2009

A Visit to My Room.

you are most welcome.

the view from my door.

the view from the corner by my desk,
looking back at the door.

my bathroom:
flush toilet,
cold shower (where my green towel is hanging),
sink.



come in, sit down, i'll fix you a cup of tea.

Father Jjajja.

Of the three priests posted to St Jude Bukoto Parish, Father Lubega Jerome is the oldest by far. In his upper eighties, he celebrated his fiftieth year as an ordained priest in 2008. His office is decorated with, among other things, a photo of his first celebration of the Eucharist and a banner proclaiming, “You are a priest forever.”


Throughout the parish, Father Jerome is lovingly referred to as Father Jjajja; in English, Father Grandfather. As per his ordination vows, Father Jjajja has never borne children of his own. Yet, with their full blessing, he relates in a grandfatherly way to every adult and child in the community.


Father Jjajja is the keeper of the parish visitor's book, and he enthusiastically welcomes any and all guests. I love visiting Father Jjajja at the parish. Last year, he was often the only priest I'd find around if I walked up to the parish during the day: the younger two tend to move around a bit more and celebrate various functions.


He speaks with a bit of an elderly mumble, but his English is impeccably British, and he still periodically teaches me new words in Luganda. More than a year ago, as I was first attempting to learn this (then) new language, it was Father Jjajja who taught me to say that I was learning “empola empola” – slowly by slowly – using his own unhurried walk to demonstrate the meaning of this new phrase. Father Jjajja does many things slowly by slowly, as he is certainly entitled to as his advanced age.


If you ask him why he wanted to become a priest, as a dear friend of mine did last week, he will grin softly and tell you of the British Fathers who used to visit his village when he was a small boy. He remembers liking the grand clothes they put on and the sweets they would hand out: he noticed that the Fathers were always well-fed and well-groomed. This is not to suggest that Father Jjajja (or others who would make the same admission) does not have a deep and meaningful calling to the priestly vocation. From his gentle manner and humble demeanour to his faithful practice of the daily order of prayers, Father Jjajja is the type of priest – and grandfather – that the world could surely use a great deal more of.

Gifting Father Jjajja.

When I was leaving Bukoto a few months ago, Father Jjajja had a single request of me. He did not ask for money or sponsorship; he has no need for American pen friends (he already has acquaintances scattered around the globe). Instead, he showed me a set of prayer books that an American priest had gifted him with decades and decades before. Four volumes, each coloured to match its period in the church calendar, which laid out the daily order of prayers and readings for the entire year. Used before they even reached him, these books have been Father Jjajja's daily prayer companions ever since. The spines were removing themselves, the ribbons fraying: the prayer books of a man who faithfully prays for his congregation and colleagues.


His one request: try to find the publisher in the United States and see if I could find him a new(er) copy. He didn't mind having a used copy, but he would really like to use books which were in slightly better condition. Most likely I wouldn't be able to find anything, and that would be perfectly fine, but could I please try?


I promised I would.


Last week, after getting rained on while we saw the new developments at St Jude Junior School, a friend and I walked up to the parish to visit Father Jjajja in particular. We had been invited to dine with the Fathers later that evening (true to his youthful observation, many priests continue to eat quite well), but I wanted to spend a little extra time with Father Jjajja before that. In part, I knew he would be excited to make a new friend; even more than that, however, I was excited to surprise him with the gift I had tucked into first my suitcase, and now my backpack: four brand new leather bound volumes of the Liturgy of the Hours. Wrapped in white paper and accounting for a few of the kilogrammes of weight I was allotted on the British Air flight, these books had been a delightful burden since arriving in my mailbox last month. So, we walked up to the parish, found Father, and started conversing with him.


When I could barely contain myself and was about to bring the books out of my bag anyway, Father Jjajja finally brought up his earlier request. Had I had any luck finding out about those books which he showed me before I left? Later, he told me that he didn't really expect that I would have gotten them: it was a bit of a long shot and really the kind of question you ask a friend who is leaving but don't really know if they'll give a thought to it after they've left (kind of along the same lines as all of my fellow teachers who never expected to see me in Bukoto this Christmas and thought I had promised to return simply to make them “feel comfortable”...).


How delighted was he when I unzipped my pack and started pulling out the four paper-covered texts. He exclaimed over each one as Madame Noe, my friend, and I helped unwrap them ever so carefully. Aw, delightful!


We spent the next hour or so watching to Father flip through the books and explain to us the order of their contents: daily readings, morning prayers, saints' day prayers, psalms, evening prayers, coloured ribbons and gilded pages. He brought out his older copies and showed us where he had added “Ug” to the list of countries whose bishops had approve this text. This newer edition already included Uganda. He showed us the prayers at the end of the psalms, this being one of his reasons for preferring this American version to the Irish ones typically used by his brother priests. He read to us the prayer for the day, then explained the inserts for additional saints and common prayers. On and on, oh, he was so happy with this gift!


Later that night over supper, Father Jjajja compared his joy over these new prayer books to that of a small child gifted with a new dress or new shoes. Just as children can spend hours – or even days – looking at their new things, just as they delight in putting them on and noticing how smart they look, just as they are extra careful not to spoil their new things: so was he with his new books. Indeed, a more than adequate comparison!


And how wonderful to share in an old man's joy and delight this Christmas.


unwrapping the books with father jjajja.

volume 2: new book, old book.

complete set: liturgy of the hours.


Stairway to Nowhere.

unfinished building, taxi park, luweero, uganda.

24 December 2009

On my mind...

Rain, rain, go away.
Come again another day.
All the children want to play.
Rain, rain, go away.

... or just, go someplace else in this region,
someplace hot and dry that needs you so much.

21 December 2009

19 December 2009

Lake of the Birds.

The story goes that when the Europeans first reached the lake, which had its own traditional name in the local language, they pointed and asked, "What do you call that?" Their native guides must have been amused or puzzled at this sudden curiousity. "Bunyonyi," they replied, "birds." Ever since, this beautiful lake where we took our annual MCC retreat has been known, at least to outsiders, as Lake Bunyonyi: Lake of the Birds.

A few photos from the lake and the surrounding region.

forest.

terracing in hill country.

yes, we were that high.

house on the lake.

oh beautiful lake.

they claim this is the deepest lake in uganda.
a crater lake, so it's in a valley.
so beautiful.

hibiscus (i think?).

sunrise over the lake.
early morning fog on the lake.

twilight.

Equator.

I long ago lost track of the number of times I've moved across the equator by road transport... usually in a bus, but sometimes in a matatu (van taxi) or car. This week, travelling back and forth from Kampala to Kabale, I stopped for the first time (twice, actually!). There are some nice art/craft galleries alongside the road, a small photo op. point, and a coffee place operated by AidChild. Near the "N/S" circles, there are a few buckets set up to demonstrate the way water theoretically spins different ways in the different hemispheres. Personally, I've always imagined it impossible to demonstrate any such gravitational effect so close (about 1 metre) to the equator itself. Since the guys offering to prove it were demanding 10,000/= (a bit more than $5), I still don't know.

But I did take pictures this time...



An Advent Reflection.

Although it's not exactly appropriate for my context (except that I was quite cold much of the week down in Kabale), I recently read this poem and thought it an apt reflection for this Advent season.

Making the House Ready for the Lord.

Dear Lord, I have swept and I have washed but
...... still nothing is as shining as it should be
for you. Under the sink, for example, is an
...... uproar of mice -- it is the season of their
many children. What shall I do? And under the eaves
...... and through the walls the squirrels
have gnawed their ragged entrances -- but it is the season
...... when they need shelter, so what shall I do? And
the raccoon limps into the kitchen and opens the cupboard
...... while the dog snores, the cat hugs the pillow;
what shall I do? Beautiful is the new snow falling
...... in the yard and the fox who is staring boldly
up the path, to the door. And still I believe you will
...... come, Lord: you will, when I speak to the fox,
the sparrow, the lost dog, the shivering sea-goose, know
...... that really I am speaking to you whenever I say,
as I do all morning and afternoon: Come in, Come in.

--from Mary Oliver's Thirst.

Context, context, context.

Today, I found this email from EMU waiting for me in my inbox:

Everyone who is travelling the next two days should take into account the current Winter Storm Warning that is in effect from 6 PM this evening (Friday) through 6 AM on Sunday morning. On-campus students should aim to leave the residence halls as soon after their last exam as possible to stay ahead of the storm. Please speak to your RD if you have concerns about the direction the storm is tracking. Current radar (10 AM) shows a "wintry-mix" is in North Carolina and moving northward.
Please take safety precautions as you travel, and have a great Christmas break!

Truly, I appreciate the concern. However, it's a bit bizarre to consider from my current context: I'm wearing flip flops and drinking a tropical milkshake in a somehow open air mall in central Uganda. It does get a bit chilly sometimes when it rains...

13 December 2009

Scenes from Atiak: Home Life.

the children were quite excited to teach me how to carry water on my head.
(the jerry can holds 10 litres and is full; this is not a posed picture.)

my laundry hanging under the beautiful sky.

Scenes from Atiak: Food.

food drying in the sun:
millet and sorghum (right)
eggplant (top left)
bal, a green (left)

simsim (sesame seeds), the "traditional food" in atiak.

pounding simsim.

grinding simsim, rock on rock.

"christine, you smile!"
(while grinding)

i love mango season!

Scenes from Atiak: People.

two year old queen elizabeth ("queenie") and a friend
playing in the dirt.

my beautiful sister eva.

paul, the youngest of the boys,
often gets stuck as the tagger in "search and hide"
(which is like "kick the can")

my brother geoffrey, who is the parish chief, in his office.

7 year old paul drawing me pictures.

cousins playing cards in my hut.

Scenes from Atiak: Sights.

our cinema makes good use of a UNHCR tarp.

a sign at the sub-county office reminding people not to pick up
"unknown objects,"
which could be remnants of war:
mines, grenades, ammunition, etc.

the monument stone erected at the sub-county
in memory of those massacred in atiak almost 15 years ago.

Scenes from Atiak: St Monica's Building Site.

new classroom blocks being built at st. monica's atiak site.

12 December 2009

Scenes from Atiak: Holy Eucharist at the Parish.

father arnold, our tanzanian priest, praying at sunday mass.

Scenes from Atiak: Auction Day.

the friday i arrived in atiak was auction day:
the monthly huge market day,
where you can buy just about everything you need -
and many things you don't!


Scenes from Atiak: New Dress.

eva (right) and consy cutting and laying out the style for my new citenge dress.


14 month old aron onen is a better helper when occupied with a sweet.


dancing to show off my new outfit.

11 December 2009

Connecting.

Last week, the night before I left for my homestay in Atiak, I was flipping through some of my old journals. I came across this entry dated 1 April 2005 (yes, I was putting the day before the month even that long ago), spring of my freshman year of college. As I find myself once again in the process of building so many new relationships and adapting to a new culture, these words rang true in my heart once again.


"Surrounded by life - laughter, conversations, friends - I wonder why I can't immerse myself in such. I can, that must is true, but my soul longs for so much more. It is not your name, major, and state of residence that interest me. Rather, I want to look inside, connect with you on a deeper level. Discover your dreams, your desires, your passions. What makes you get up in the morning? What do you really truly want to do with your life? What are you afraid of? What brings you joy? What are life's deep questions that your soul so desperately longs to answer? What is your story? Those are the questions I want to ask of humankind. To make deep connections; to encounter other souls."


Truly, I've started to make some of those connections: with my host family in Atiak, with the Sisters who have opened their lives to me here in Gulu, with my namesake Daisy. These will deepen, and others must also come, as I immerse myself more fully into this culture and place...


me with my new sister evaline.


Sweeping Compound

The first time I saw women sweeping their home compounds was a few years ago in Zambia (three and a half, to be exact, though it feels so much longer than that). It didn't make sense to me then: it seemed strange to think of sweeping dirt. After all, wouldn't it still be “dirt”-y?

Last year, as I watched my younger cousin sweep our compound every day, I learnt to tell the difference between, shall we say, “clean” dirt and “dirty” dirt. Where Americans have their front yards, Ugandans have compounds: the cleared space in front, beside, and around one's house where much of life takes place. The compound is kitchen, laundry room, meeting place, playground. It is here that groundnuts are shelled, potatoes peeled, dishes washed, babies fed, decisions made.



my hut.


Throughout the day, the compound is littered with the detritus of daily life: discarded beans, loose grass and leaves, groundnut shells, chicken droppings, and of course, all of the bits of plastic, wood, and rubber dragged in by wind and children at play.


And so, every evening, we take up a broom – made of cut grasses or even sticks – and we tidy up the place. The process must be repeated in the morning, to brush away the remnants of bottle caps, alcohol packets, goat droppings, and wind-blown leaves [I live now in a busy trading centre, if you couldn't tell by the types of litter I'm describing] – or even just to smooth the dirt which has settled during the night.


Because, you see, the compound is not just piles of lose dirt. Years of passing feet and scorching sun keep these portions of earth hard and firm. So a compound littered with life's rubbish, or even just lightly dusted with soil, like a poorly kept house, tends to signify that the inhabitants (particularly the female ones) are not bothered to keep their space well.


These days, I keep a small grass broom by my door for tidying inside my own hut and front step. And I daily take up the outside broom to sweep our compound. I suppose this should be added to my list of marriageable traits (not that most of my Ugandan suitors seem to worry about much more than my beauty!).


shoes.

10 December 2009

A Mad Manifesto

This evening, sitting at Mama Ruth's salon, I have watched one of the local mad men give a speech. He stood at the edge of the road, appearing to address quite a large (though invisible) crowd as he mumbled his words. He shook his fist at the sky, then covered his mouth and moved away. I can only imagine what manifesto he has declared for us all.

There seem to be quite a few mad people here in Atiak: men, women, and children. Leaving aside the drunkards, whose poor behaviour and nonsensical comments might be temporary, I must have encountered almost ten already, some of whom I have learnt to recognise.

There is the man who informed me that I am from Pakistan, have an Acholi husband and a baby called Giovany. This man with his unheard manifesto. The woman who demanded – in Luganda, nonetheless – that I buy her roasted maize. There is a boy who always smiles, showing all his teeth, and another who likes to do cartwheels. The second one likes to greet me, and today I met him eating a raw onion. There are others, too, whose unkempt appearance and strange behaviour attest to their disturbed mental status.

Auntie tells me that this is yet another result of the war and camp. Alcoholism and malnutrition and insanity: societal trauma attesting to the long-lasting affects of war and violence.

08 December 2009

Yaa. (This Traditional Oil.)

Yaa grows on trees and has a fruit which resembles mangoes, only it is smaller. The fruit stays green when it is ripe, and it is very sweet for eating. The seeds are brown and about the length of one knuckle. When you first get the seed, it has a smooth, light brown shell. After drying in the sun, you can remove this shell, then dry even the inner seed. These seeds can be preserved for some months inside.

When you want to make oil, you first roast the seeds on the fire, and they become black. Then you pound them, producing a thick, black, gooey substance. (If you also grind the seeds after pounding, it will produce more oil.)

This gooey substance, you take for cooking. First, you heat water, then add a good portion of the yaa. Heat to boiling, stirring constantly. The consistency should be neither very thick nor very thin. Cook for some time at a rolling boil, stirring occasionally. The oil is now separating from the thicker residue (which somehow resembles coffee grounds).

Pour off the oil, and discard the residue. Allow the oil to cool, then filter it.

Yaa can be used for cooking, but it is mostly taken as a condiment for food. For example, it can be poured over bread (made from sorghum and millet) and peas. It is sold in the market, and people seem to really enjoy it.


I watched Auntie prepare the oil from preserved seeds today, from grinding through the cooking process. It took a good part of the day, but we enjoyed the yaa oil with our supper. Personally, I prefer my food a little less oily, but it does have a very distinct flavour.